Automobile

Wiring and cabling for car stereos: an installation guide

How to run wires so that they are either a) not noticeable or b) aesthetically pleasing:

All right! You’ve finally decided to upgrade your audio and are ready to install the high-end components. I know you’d instead jump right into component installation and powering up your system than deal with the tedious task of wiring wires. Nnnnnno!

I cannot stress enough that we are here to perform a HIGH-QUALITY stereo installation. Not a sloppy, hastily done, subpar effort. Because this audio will be in your car for years to come, we take our time installing it. Therefore, before beginning the wiring process, it is essential to consider the desired outcome.

To review. How certain are you about the parts you plan to set up? Hopefully, you have a general idea of where to go, even if you don’t have everything in place yet. As a result, when you eventually receive your components, you can mount them, connect the wires, and start using them.

Don’t be an idiot like everyone else, and consider the installation method once you’ve figured out what parts you need. First, plan the installation, then gather the necessary tools and materials. DUH!!! By the way, this strategy will help you save both time and money.

Do you feel like you got a proper introduction? All right, let’s get into the wiring basics!

Get all the electrical wire you anticipate using, plus some extra, just in case. Your investment will not be squandered.

Next, you’ll need to take apart the sections of your car where the wires will be installed. Do what I say and take apart the whole thing! Everything from the chairs to the panels can be retracted. Wires will be run more quickly, safely, and easily using this.

Soundproofing or dampening materials, if any, should be installed today. What’s the point if you’re not going to use it? By reducing noise and getting rid of vibrations, this improves the overall sound quality of your system. Get on it!

You’re at the point where you can start stringing wires. Take them wherever they’ll be most helpful. Install all necessary lines, including power, RCA, speaker, interface, and remote on/off. EVERYTHING.

Now that they are arranged in the way you want and need, you should lock them down. Ties are used extensively in the production of vehicles to keep cables neat and out of the way. You’re up next. I don’t think it’s a good idea that so many individuals skip this step.

Why?

For the simple reason that vehicle wires quickly deteriorate when exposed to frequent vibrations, stress, and weather. The result of frayed wires is…

Voltage drop!
A car caught fire!
Broken parts!

Don’t take any chances; tie down your wires instead.

Mount any amp racks or other items the wiring will pass through, then secure the wiring to the shelves or other things.

OK, OK. Those are the fundamental actions required to run wires. But how exactly do you go about doing this? Okay, here’s the breakdown:

1. Determine the spacing between the mounting locations and the interfaces. Take the distance from the battery to the spot where the amplifier will go, for example. And don’t be an idiot. Get a few feet extra on each end, just in case. Also, check that the wires aren’t too stretched. You need to give yourself some wiggle room on both ends. All of a sudden, things are looking up for you.

Additional Units of Measurement:

Input from the amplifier’s head unit

Speaker amplification

Connecting the car’s stereo, mp3 player, GPS, etc., to the head unit.

Before purchasing, you should also know whether wires are compatible with your intended components. Using a chart, determine the appropriate wire gauge for connecting a 500-watt amplifier to a battery 17 feet away. When it comes to power wire, some people go completely batshit crazy, spending $5 per foot on 0 gauge wire. WHY??? Don’t buy it if you don’t intend to use it.

2.) You’ve gathered your wire and are prepared to begin. It’s time to start dismantling your car. Establish a plan for the placement of your wires first. The side of the vehicle with the battery is often where I route the power cable. The center of the car is where I usually route my RCA cables. If you have this data, you’ll know where to take apart your vehicle. If you don’t need to run lines via a particular area of your car, then there’s no need to disassemble anything. Unless, Unless, Unless! You intend to install some soundproofing. One of my go-to suggestions!

Let’s begin, then. Now comes the exciting part. So, first things first. Take off the negative (ground) cable from the battery.

Rise the dividers! Using a panel removal tool is strongly recommended. Your panels will be safer from damage if you do this.

Third, it’s time to lay cable.

The power cable installation comes first: Locate a gap in your car’s shielding. A power wire may be able to enter your vehicle through the far corner of the hood, next to the windshield, if no other openings are available. If that is not possible, drilling will be required. Although every vehicle is unique, the following safety tip holds regardless: Think ahead, and watch your step! Check the area you intend to drill into to be sure you won’t be damaging anything. If you’re anxious, you could always take your car to a stereo shop and have them run the power line through the firewall. The next step is to route the cable somewhere. It won’t be too conspicuous until the carpet is replaced. Bring it to the trunk (or wherever you intend to install the amplifier and distribution blocks). The cable must then be fastened. Ensure your power cable stays in place using zip ties, glue, or even velcro. Avoid placing it near any moving parts or rubbing it against anything that could damage the insulation. Also, double-check that it won’t cause any problems once the walls, flooring, and other finishing touches are back in place.

Let’s install your RCA, interface, and remote on/off wire. The negative cable must be unplugged from the battery. Take apart any panels that are near your stereo’s head. Take the stereo off of your head. Uncover the area where you’ll run the RCA cables and the interface cables by removing any panels, consoles, and carpet. Join the wire from the remote’s on/off switch to the stereo’s power supply. Consider installing a relay to use the head unit’s remote turn-on feature with more than two devices. After that, you should connect the RCA wires, interface cable, and remote switch. As I mentioned, everything I said regarding power cables also applies to RCA and interface cables. To prevent the cable’s insulation from being worn away, keep it away from any moving parts, and position it such that it is hidden after the panels and carpet are replaced. You’ll need to connect the RCA cables to the pre-outs on your head unit, and you’ll also need to keep track of which RCA cable corresponds to which amp channel. It shouldn’t be too harsh, as many RCA wires are color-coded. Connect the cord to your interface. Reconnect the head unit. Before reassembling, double-check that all connections are secure.

All right, here is the final stage. Let’s string some speakers! As with the other cables up top, this is a standard procedure. Raise the covers. Install the wiring. Think about the terrain of the area you intend to use. Keep them safe. The speaker cord should extend a few feet past the amplifier and the speakers. I realize how ridiculous this sounds. Spending all that time running wire only to find out it’s too short is stupider. When it happens, you have to unroll the wire, toss it, and start the process over. DUMB!

Protect the cords!

After you’ve finished running your wires, you should fasten them down. Wires can be fastened in a variety of methods, not all of which are reliable. You’ll likely need to employ several techniques to keep your cables safe all around your car. Soooooo…

First, use zip ties to fasten wire bundles together.

2.) Use zip ties to fasten wires to tiny holes (or make small holes).

Third, affix the zip ties to your car with glue before using them to fasten the cables.

Fourth, hide the cables beneath what you intend to fasten them to.

5. Fasten wires using velcro.

Fifth, fasten cables to their enclosures (amp racks, speaker pods, etc.).

To keep your cables from tangling, find a way to fasten them to your stereo’s rack or enclosure if you have one. If the racks or enclosures are on display, you should make the wiring neat and presentable.

In the case of amplifiers, you can access the internal wiring by drilling holes in the rack at each connection point. Thread the cables through the openings and onto the amplifier. Using this method, your lines will always be neat.

There are several ways to tidy up the cables inside a speaker box. Subwoofer enclosures made of plexiglass typically have an attractive wire running to them. In addition, proficient installers will select terminals for functional and aesthetically pleasing lines. Installing speaker terminals outside the enclosure or a bespoke quick-release wiring harness will make your section transportable.

Enjoy!
Verified AEB

Alan Bayer is a businessman and an avid listener to music in his car. He has a shop on eBay where he sells equipment to put in car stereos:

http://stores.ebay.com/honest-aebs-autosound/

In addition to the previous post, he has some fantastic ones about automobile audio on his website. The website also includes information on automotive audio, including where to buy the best gear, how to set it up properly, and how to save a ton of money.

Get the latest in-car audio with Honest AEB’s FREE magazine subscription!

Read also: Purchasing Your First Car? Here’s What You should know

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