While on a site visit recently, I was amazed to see a framer quickly set windows into their apertures. I can state with complete certainty that, as I witnessed the units being put in individually, the sole installation procedure was using a hammer and nails. Most of the annual repair calls we get are because windows were installed incorrectly, and I couldn’t help but worry about that. Now that you’ve seen it for yourself, the challenge is communicating your concerns to the framer or, even worse, how to notify the builder that his warranty is null and invalid since someone didn’t follow the directions. At this point, I wondered, “Rough framing or finish work?” You alone can provide the solution.
In many cases, modern window installation involves tossing the unit into place and fastening it using roofing nails through the nailing flange. I’ve seen this done too many times to count, and I can guarantee that the end user will never benefit from Windows’ full potential. So that the final customer receives what I’ve promised, it is essential that the person installing the window fully understands the installation instructions.
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The windows I described above came with a set of instructions already attached. Instructions for Kolbe, Solaris, and Andersen windows are essentially identical. Here are the top three takeaways from the installation guide.
First, make a rough opening; I know this sounds basic, but the framer I saw in action wasn’t even using a level. An eyeball line-up method was used to ensure these were set up correctly. The hole must be straight, square, level, and in-plane (NOT TWISTED). No twisting of the individual building components is allowed. The sill plate underneath the device must be absolutely level to function correctly. The flashing of the opening is also crucial.
Caulking with sealant is necessary regardless of the method used to seal the perimeter. Seal the corner pads to the frame and run a 3/16″ bead of sealant along the head and sides of the clad unit in the valley formed by the nailing fin and the frame.
Thirdly, Shims: I rarely encounter this these days. While assisting our installed insulation division a few years ago, I noticed something wasn’t quite right. Insulating window frames were part of my assignment. One of the first things I noticed was that none of the window apertures had shims. This was the case with every single house we insulated. What’s the big deal here? Shims must be placed initially between the side jamb and the rough aperture at the check-rail for most double-hung units. The manufacturer’s warranty may be voided if these shims are not included. The following are the instructions. I ripped off a vinyl window. Shims should be installed to isolate the window from any building movement. No shims, no guarantee; it stands to reason.
These are just a few potential problems when installing new windows. You must have the right person installing your windows if there have been minimal calls about repairs or malfunctions. However, if you or your provider have many callbacks, you may want to investigate the quality of the installation.
Rick Wedding has been servicing customers in West Michigan for the past decade, although he has been in the construction materials industry for almost twenty-two years. Since then, he’s become interested in the construction industry’s products. Rick is convinced that every buyer should be able to spend money on items that will provide them with years of pleasure. To learn more, check out.
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