Here are some things to keep in mind if you plan on replacing your electrical outlets and switches:
Take note of the wire colors when you remove the old outlets. Only black & white and no other colors are acceptable. A bare ground wire, the third wire, is often present. You may find anywhere from one to three black and white wires at each outlet. To use a receptacle, you must first attach the black wires to one side and the white wires to the other. The screws on either side of the device typically attach groups of two or three of the same colored wires. Each side has two screws. If there are two white wires, each one should be routed beneath a separate screw. The flip side is the same as the black one. Sometimes the third wire of a given color will be doubled up under a screw if there are three of that color in total.
Light switches and receptacles would have a different sort of connection technique if they were installed after 1970. Stabbing-lock or speed-wire devices were the names given to this “new” concept. Instead of side screws, stab-lock devices only have holes in the back. There are screws and holes in some of them. Stabbing-lock devices sped up the wiring process for the brand-new houses. Squatting, stripping, stabbing, slamming, and jumping from one outlet to the next was the standard procedure for electricians. The focus was entirely on manufacturing. It still is, and the same technique is employed.
The most common reason for calling for electrical service repairs is faulty stab-lock connections. All power to everything beyond the loose stab-lock hole is immediately cut off if even a single wire comes free at the stab hole. Similar to how you might have used Christmas tree lights in the past. If one lightbulb goes out, all the others will follow suit.
When a consumer reports, “The breaker is still on, but there’s no power,” I know something is wrong. There’s probably a stab lock in the circuit that isn’t tight.
Compared to the standard practice in new construction, our way of installing switches and plugs is more time-consuming; however, it guarantees that you will never experience issues due to weak connections. We physically connect the white wires by twisting them together to do this. The procedure is repeated with the black wires. Quality lineman’s pliers are essential. We then twist a 7-inch-long white and black lead wire into each splice. The circuit is now passing through to the next outlet without the conduit being physically built.
The stab-lock holes should never be used.
Insert the solitary lead wire under one of the two screws flanking the plug.
Black stranded wire, a golden screw
Silver screw with white wire.
It doesn’t matter which one you choose as long as black is gold and white is silver. The polarity of this installation is proper. That’s also why your cord’s prongs aren’t perfectly symmetrical in size. You can’t use the appliance if you plug it in backward. Even if you unplug the cables, the circuit will remain closed.
Make sure the receptacle’s grounding prong is at ground level. If the switch is located on the top of the receptacle, it is controlled by a light switch. The green screw secured to the metal body of the receptacle serves as the third hole’s GROUND connection. That’s what you plug in the bare ground wire to.
One half of the receptacle is always live, and a light switch activates the other half if you replace one and notice that it has a black and red wire on the gold screw side. Breaking the tiny metal bridge on the GOLD screw side of the plug is the only way to get the top half out from under the bottom half. By severing the silver or white wire side of the metal bridge, the neutral to the remaining outlets on the circuit is cut off. The device’s white wire or silver screw side has a bridge that must be protected at all costs. In most cases, only two wires must be connected when replacing a light switch. One is placed atop the other, and vice versa. If two wires are under the same screw or stab hole on the same side of the light switch, twist them together and terminate with a single lead wire.
Many homeowners are confident in their ability to perform basic electrical repairs themselves; however, electricity is exceedingly dangerous and must be turned off before any work can be done. Do not tinker with live wires. Before you do anything, double-check that the power is completely turned off. Even if a circuit breaker is switched to the off position, power may still be passing through the wires. That shouldn’t happen, but it occasionally does when non-electricians mess up the wiring. Before touching any wire, you should always ensure no electricity flows through it. While we recommend hiring a professional electrician for any electrical work, performing the job right the first time can save you time and money in the long run.
Jim started in the industry in the early 1970s as an electrician for his father’s Northern Virginia firm, Dent Electric. Working for his father’s domestic electrical service firm, Jim honed his skills in problem-solving and electrical maintenance and repair.
After striking out independently, he honed his skills in all facets of home electrical repair and service, expanding his repertoire to include commercial and industrial settings. Jim has wired everything from malls to mansions. Point Loma Electric, established in 1988, is San Diego’s go-to for all your older home electrical needs.
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